2005 BMW 325 Engine REMOVAL and INSTALLATION?

NOTE

Disconnecting the negative battery cable on some vehicles may interfere with the operation of the on-board computer system. The computer to undergo a relearning process once the negative battery cable is reconnected.

NOTE

Disconnecting the negative battery cable on some vehicles may interfere with the operation of the on-board computer system. The computer to undergo a relearning process once the negative battery cable is reconnected.

Overhaul

Buy or Rebuild-

Now that you have determined that your engine is worn out, you must make some decisions. The question of whether or not an engine is worth rebuilding is largely a subjective matter and one of personal worth. Is the engine a popular one, or is it an obsolete model- Are parts available- Will it get acceptable gas mileage once it is rebuilt- Is the car it's being put into worth keeping- Would it be less expensive to buy a new engine, have your engine rebuilt by a pro, rebuild it yourself or buy a used engine from a salvage yard- Or would it be simpler and less expensive to buy another car- If you have considered all these matters and more, and have still decided to rebuild the engine, then it is time to decide how you will rebuild it.

NOTE

The editors at Chilton feel that most engine machining should be performed by a professional machine shop. Don't think of it as wasting money, rather, as an assurance that the job has been done right the first time. There are many expensive and specialized tools required to perform such tasks as boring and honing an engine block or having a valve job done on a cylinder head. Even inspecting the parts requires expensive micrometers and gauges to properly measure wear and clearances. Also, a machine shop can deliver to you clean, and ready to assemble parts, saving you time and aggravation. Your maximum savings will come from performing the removal, disassembly, assembly and installation of the engine and purchasing or renting only the tools required to perform the above tasks. Depending on the particular circumstances, you may save 40 to 60 percent of the cost doing these yourself.

A complete rebuild or overhaul of an engine involves replacing all of the moving parts (pistons, rods, crankshaft, camshaft, etc.) with new ones and machining the non-moving wearing surfaces of the block and heads. Unfortunately, this may not be cost effective. For instance, your crankshaft may have been damaged or worn, but it can be machined undersize for a minimal fee.

So, as you can see, you can replace everything inside the engine, but, it is wiser to replace only those parts which are really needed, and, if possible, repair the more expensive ones. Later in this section, we will break the engine down into its two main components: the cylinder head and the engine block. We will discuss each component, and the recommended parts to replace during a rebuild on each.

Cylinder Block Reconditioning

A thorough overhaul or rebuild of an engine block would include replacing the pistons, rings, bearings, timing belt/chain assembly and oil pump. For OHV engines also include a new camshaft and lifters. The block would then have the cylinders bored and honed oversize (or if using removable cylinder sleeves, new sleeves installed) and the crankshaft would be cut undersize to provide new wearing surfaces and perfect clearances. However, your particular engine may not have everything worn out. What if only the piston rings have worn out and the clearances on everything else are still within factory specifications- Well, you could just replace the rings and put it back together, but this would be a very rare example. Chances are, if one component in your engine is worn, other components are sure to follow, and soon. At the very least, you should always replace the rings, bearings and oil pump. This is what is commonly called a "freshen up".

Assembly

Before you begin assembling the engine, first give yourself a clean, dirt free work area. Next, clean every engine component again. The key to a good assembly is cleanliness.

Mount the engine block into the engine stand and wash it one last time using water and detergent (dishwashing detergent works well). While washing it, scrub the cylinder bores with a soft bristle brush and thoroughly clean all of the oil passages. Completely dry the engine and spray the entire assembly down with an anti-rust solution such as WD-40® or similar product. Take a clean lint-free rag and wipe up any excess anti-rust solution from the bores, bearing saddles, etc. Repeat the final cleaning process on the crankshaft. Replace any freeze or oil galley plugs which were removed during disassembly.

Crankshaft

1. Remove the main bearing inserts from the block and bearing caps.
2. If the crankshaft main bearing journals have been refinished to a definite undersize, install the correct undersize bearing. Be sure that the bearing inserts and bearing bores are clean. Foreign material under inserts will distort bearing and cause failure.
3. Place the upper main bearing inserts in bores with tang in slot.

NOTE

The oil holes in the bearing inserts must be aligned with the oil holes in the cylinder block.

1. Install the lower main bearing inserts in bearing caps.
2. Clean the mating surfaces of block and rear main bearing cap.
3. Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage bearing surfaces.
4. Check the clearance of each main bearing by using the following procedure:
   1. Place a piece of Plastigage® or its equivalent, on bearing surface across full width of bearing cap and about ¹ / ₄ in. off center.

   
   

Fig. Apply a strip of gauging material to the bearing journal, then install and torque the cap

1. Install cap and tighten bolts to specifications. Do not turn crankshaft while Plastigage® is in place.
2. Remove the cap. Using the supplied Plastigage® scale, check width of Plastigage® at widest point to get maximum clearance. Difference between readings is taper of journal.

Fig. After the cap is removed again, use the scale supplied with the gauging material to check the clearance

1. If clearance exceeds specified limits, try a 0.001 in. or 0.002 in. undersize bearing in combination with the standard bearing. Bearing clearance must be within specified limits. If standard and 0.002 in. undersize bearing does not bring clearance within desired limits, refinish crankshaft journal, then install undersize bearings.

1. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journals and bearings. Install the rear main bearing cap. Install all bearing caps except the thrust bearing cap. Be sure that main bearing caps are installed in original locations. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to specifications.
2. Install the thrust bearing cap with bolts finger-tight.
3. Pry the crankshaft forward against the thrust surface of upper half of bearing.
4. Hold the crankshaft forward and pry the thrust bearing cap to the rear. This aligns the thrust surfaces of both halves of the bearing.
5. Retain the forward pressure on the crankshaft. Tighten the cap bolts to specifications.
6. Measure the crankshaft end-play as follows:

Fig. A dial gauge may be used to check crankshaft end-play

1. Mount a dial gauge to the engine block and position the tip of the gauge to read from the crankshaft end.
2. Carefully pry the crankshaft toward the rear of the engine and hold it there while you zero the gauge.

Fig. Carefully pry the crankshaft back and forth while reading the dial gauge for end-play

1. Carefully pry the crankshaft toward the front of the engine and read the gauge.
2. Confirm that the reading is within specifications. If not, install a new thrust bearing and repeat the procedure. If the reading is still out of specifications with a new bearing, have a machine shop inspect the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft, and if possible, repair it.

1. Rotate the crankshaft so as to position the first rod journal to the bottom of its stroke.
2. Install the rear main seal.

Engine Covers & Components

Install the timing cover(s) and oil pan. Refer to your notes and drawings made prior to disassembly and install all of the components that were removed. Install the engine into the vehicle.

OHC Engines
Cylinder Head

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.

Pistons & Connecting Rods

1. Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
   1. Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
   2. Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
   3. Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
   4. Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
   5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set.

   
   

Fig. Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge

1. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced.

Fig. The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert

1. Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
2. Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps.

Fig. Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston

1. Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage.

Fig. Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer

1. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
2. Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
3. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
4. Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
5. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
6. Install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.
7. If equipped, install the auxiliary/balance shaft assembly.

Cylinder Block Cleaning

Before the engine and its components are inspected, they must be thoroughly cleaned. You will need to remove any engine varnish, oil sludge and/or carbon deposits from all of the components to insure an accurate inspection. A crack in the engine block or cylinder head can easily become overlooked if hidden by a layer of sludge or carbon.

Fig. Use a gasket scraper to remove the old gasket material from the mating surfaces

Most of the cleaning process can be carried out with common hand tools and readily available solvents or solutions. Carbon deposits can be chipped away using a hammer and a hard wooden chisel. Old gasket material and varnish or sludge can usually be removed using a scraper and/or cleaning solvent. Extremely stubborn deposits may require the use of a power drill with a wire brush. If using a wire brush, use extreme care around any critical machined surfaces (such as the gasket surfaces, bearing saddles, cylinder bores, etc.). Use of a wire brush is NOT RECOMMENDED on any aluminum components. Always follow any safety recommendations given by the manufacturer of the tool and/or solvent. You should always wear eye protection during any cleaning process involving scraping, chipping or spraying of solvents.

An alternative to the mess and hassle of cleaning the parts yourself is to drop them off at a local garage or machine shop. They will, more than likely, have the necessary equipment to properly clean all of the parts for a nominal fee.

CAUTION

Always wear eye protection during any cleaning process involving scraping, chipping or spraying of solvents.

Fig. Use a ring expander tool to remove the piston rings

Remove any oil galley plugs, freeze plugs and/or pressed-in bearings and carefully wash and degrease all of the engine components including the fasteners and bolts. Small parts such as the valves, springs, etc., should be placed in a metal basket and allowed to soak. Use pipe cleaner type brushes, and clean all passageways in the components. Use a ring expander and remove the rings from the pistons. Clean the piston ring grooves with a special tool or a piece of broken ring. Scrape the carbon off of the top of the piston. You should never use a wire brush on the pistons. After preparing all of the piston assemblies in this manner, wash and degrease them again.

Fig. Clean the piston ring grooves using a ring groove cleaner tool, or . . .

Fig. . . . use a piece of an old ring to clean the grooves. Be careful, the ring can be quite sharp

WARNING

Use extreme care when cleaning around the cylinder head valve seats. A mistake or slip may cost you a new seat.

When cleaning the cylinder head, remove carbon from the combustion chamber with the valves installed. This will avoid damaging the valve seats.

Disassembly

The engine disassembly instructions following assume that you have the engine mounted on an engine stand. If not, it is easiest to disassemble the engine on a bench or the floor with it resting on the bell housing or transmission mounting surface. You must be able to access the connecting rod fasteners and turn the crankshaft during disassembly. Also, all engine covers (timing, front, side, oil pan, whatever) should have already been removed. Engines which are seized or locked up may not be able to be completely disassembled, and a core (salvage yard) engine should be purchased.

Rotate the engine over so that the crankshaft is exposed. Use a number punch or scribe and mark each connecting rod with its respective cylinder number. The cylinder closest to the front of the engine is always number 1. However, depending on the engine placement, the front of the engine could either be the flywheel or damper/pulley end. Generally the front of the engine faces the front of the vehicle. Use a number punch or scribe and also mark the main bearing caps from front to rear with the front most cap being number 1 (if there are five caps, mark them 1 through 5, front to rear).

Fig. Place rubber hose over the connecting rod studs to protect the crankshaft and cylinder bores from damage

WARNING

Take special care when pushing the connecting rod up from the crankshaft because the sharp threads of the rod bolts/studs will score the crankshaft journal. Insure that special plastic caps are installed over them, or cut two pieces of rubber hose to do the same.

Fig. Carefully tap the piston out of the bore using a wooden dowel

Again, rotate the engine, this time to position the number one cylinder bore (head surface) up. Turn the crankshaft until the number one piston is at the bottom of its travel, this should allow the maximum access to its connecting rod. Remove the number one connecting rods fasteners and cap and place two lengths of rubber hose over the rod bolts/studs to protect the crankshaft from damage. Using a sturdy wooden dowel and a hammer, push the connecting rod up about 1 in. (25mm) from the crankshaft and remove the upper bearing insert. Continue pushing or tapping the connecting rod up until the piston rings are out of the cylinder bore. Remove the piston and rod by hand, put the upper half of the bearing insert back into the rod, install the cap with its bearing insert installed, and hand-tighten the cap fasteners. If the parts are kept in order in this manner, they will not get lost and you will be able to tell which bearings came form what cylinder if any problems are discovered and diagnosis is necessary. Remove all the other piston assemblies in the same manner. On V-style engines, remove all of the pistons from one bank, then reposition the engine with the other cylinder bank head surface up, and remove that banks piston assemblies.

The only remaining component in the engine block should now be the crankshaft. Loosen the main bearing caps evenly until the fasteners can be turned by hand, then remove them and the caps. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block. Thoroughly clean all of the components.

OHC Engines

If not done during the cylinder head removal, remove the timing chain/belt and/or gear/sprocket assembly. Remove the oil pick-up and pump assembly and, if necessary, the pump drive. If equipped, remove any balance or auxiliary shafts. If necessary, remove the cylinder ridge from the top of the bore. See the cylinder ridge removal procedure earlier in this section.

Inspection

Now that the engine block and all of its components are clean, it's time to inspect them for wear and/or damage. To accurately inspect them, you will need some specialized tools:

Two or three separate micrometers to measure the pistons and crankshaft journals

A dial indicator

Telescoping gauges for the cylinder bores

A rod alignment fixture to check for bent connecting rods

If you do not have access to the proper tools, you may want to bring the components to a shop that does.

Generally, you shouldn't expect cracks in the engine block or its components unless it was known to leak, consume or mix engine fluids, it was severely overheated, or there was evidence of bad bearings and/or crankshaft damage. A visual inspection should be performed on all of the components, but just because you don't see a crack does not mean it is not there. Some more reliable methods for inspecting for cracks include Magnaflux®, a magnetic process or Zyglo®, a dye penetrant. Magnaflux® is used only on ferrous metal (cast iron). Zyglo® uses a spray on fluorescent mixture along with a black light to reveal the cracks. It is strongly recommended to have your engine block checked professionally for cracks, especially if the engine was known to have overheated and/or leaked or consumed coolant. Contact a local shop for availability and pricing of these services.

Bearings

All of the engine bearings should be visually inspected for wear and/or damage. The bearing should look evenly worn all around with no deep scores or pits. If the bearing is severely worn, scored, pitted or heat blued, then the bearing, and the components that use it, should be brought to a machine shop for inspection. Full-circle bearings (used on most camshafts, auxiliary shafts, balance shafts, etc.) require specialized tools for removal and installation, and should be brought to a machine shop for service.

Engine Block
Checking The Block Deck For Warpage

The top of the engine block where the cylinder head mounts is called the deck. Insure that the deck surface is clean of dirt, carbon deposits and old gasket material. Place a straightedge across the surface of the deck along its centerline and, using feeler gauges, check the clearance along several points. Repeat the checking procedure with the straightedge placed along both diagonals of the deck surface. If the reading exceeds 0.003 in. (0.076mm) within a 6.0 in. (15.2cm) span, or 0.006 in. (0.152mm) over the total length of the deck, it must be machined.

Cylinder Bores

The cylinder bores house the pistons and are slightly larger than the pistons themselves. A common piston-to-bore clearance is 0.0015-0.0025 in. (0.0381mm-0.0635mm). Inspect and measure the cylinder bores. The bore should be checked for out-of-roundness, taper and size. The results of this inspection will determine whether the cylinder can be used in its existing size and condition, or a rebore to the next oversize is required (or in the case of removable sleeves, have replacements installed).

Fig. Use a telescoping gauge to measure the cylinder bore diameter-take several readings within the same bore

The amount of cylinder wall wear is always greater at the top of the cylinder than at the bottom. This wear is known as taper. Any cylinder that has a taper of 0.0012 in. (0.305mm) or more, must be rebored. Measurements are taken at a number of positions in each cylinder: at the top, middle and bottom and at two points at each position; that is, at a point 90 degrees from the crankshaft centerline, as well as a point parallel to the crankshaft centerline. The measurements are made with either a special dial indicator or a telescopic gauge and micrometer. If the necessary precision tools to check the bore are not available, take the block to a machine shop and have them mike it. Also if you don't have the tools to check the cylinder bores, chances are you will not have the necessary devices to check the pistons, connecting rods and crankshaft. Take these components with you and save yourself an extra trip.

For our procedures, we will use a telescopic gauge and a micrometer. You will need one of each, with a measuring range which covers your cylinder bore size.

1. Position the telescopic gauge in the cylinder bore, loosen the gauges lock and allow it to expand.

NOTE

Your first two readings will be at the top of the cylinder bore, then proceed to the middle and finally the bottom, making a total of six measurements.

1. Hold the gauge square in the bore, 90 degrees from the crankshaft centerline, and gently tighten the lock. Tilt the gauge back to remove it from the bore.
2. Measure the gauge with the micrometer and record the reading.
3. Again, hold the gauge square in the bore, this time parallel to the crankshaft centerline, and gently tighten the lock. Again, you will tilt the gauge back to remove it from the bore.
4. Measure the gauge with the micrometer and record this reading. The difference between these two readings is the out-of-round measurement of the cylinder.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 5, each time going to the next lower position, until you reach the bottom of the cylinder. Then go to the next cylinder, and continue until all of the cylinders have been measured.

The difference between these measurements will tell you all about the wear in your cylinders. The measurements which were taken 90 degrees from the crankshaft centerline will always reflect the most wear. That is because at this position is where the engine power presses the piston against the cylinder bore the hardest. This is known as thrust wear. Take your top, 90 degree measurement and compare it to your bottom, 90 degree measurement. The difference between them is the taper. When you measure your pistons, you will compare these readings to your piston sizes and determine piston-to-wall clearance.

Engine Block Bearing Alignment

Remove the main bearing caps and, if still installed, the main bearing inserts. Inspect all of the main bearing saddles and caps for damage, burrs or high spots. If damage is found, and it is caused from a spun main bearing, the block will need to be align-bored or, if severe enough, replacement. Any burrs or high spots should be carefully removed with a metal file.

Place a straightedge on the bearing saddles, in the engine block, along the centerline of the crankshaft. If any clearance exists between the straightedge and the saddles, the block must be align-bored.

Align-boring consists of machining the main bearing saddles and caps by means of a flycutter that runs through the bearing saddles.

Refinishing

Almost all engine block refinishing must be performed by a machine shop. If the cylinders are not to be rebored, then the cylinder glaze can be removed with a ball hone. When removing cylinder glaze with a ball hone, use a light or penetrating type oil to lubricate the hone. Do not allow the hone to run dry as this may cause excessive scoring of the cylinder bores and wear on the hone. If new pistons are required, they will need to be installed to the connecting rods. This should be performed by a machine shop as the pistons must be installed in the correct relationship to the rod or engine damage can occur.

Fig. Use a ball type cylinder hone to remove any glaze and provide a new surface for seating the piston rings

Ridge Removal

Because the top piston ring does not travel to the very top of the cylinder, a ridge is built up between the end of the travel and the top of the cylinder bore.

Pushing the piston and connecting rod assembly past the ridge can be difficult, and damage to the piston ring lands could occur. If the ridge is not removed before installing a new piston or not removed at all, piston ring breakage and piston damage may occur.

NOTE

It is always recommended that you remove any cylinder ridges before removing the piston and connecting rod assemblies. If you know that new pistons are going to be installed and the engine block will be bored oversize, you may be able to forego this step. However, some ridges may actually prevent the assemblies from being removed, necessitating its removal.

There are several different types of ridge reamers on the market, none of which are inexpensive. Unless a great deal of engine rebuilding is anticipated, borrow or rent a reamer.

1. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at the bottom of its travel.
2. Cover the head of the piston with a rag.
3. Follow the tool manufacturers instructions and cut away the ridge, exercising extreme care to avoid cutting too deeply.
4. Remove the ridge reamer, the rag and as many of the cuttings as possible. Continue until all of the cylinder ridges have been removed.

Determining Engine Condition

Anything that generates heat and/or friction will eventually burn or wear out (for example, a light bulb generates heat, therefore its life span is limited). With this in mind, a running engine generates tremendous amounts of both; friction is encountered by the moving and rotating parts inside the engine and heat is created by friction and combustion of the fuel. However, the engine has systems designed to help reduce the effects of heat and friction and provide added longevity. The oiling system reduces the amount of friction encountered by the moving parts inside the engine, while the cooling system reduces heat created by friction and combustion. If either system is not maintained, a break-down will be inevitable. Therefore, you can see how regular maintenance can affect the service life of your vehicle. If you do not drain, flush and refill your cooling system at the proper intervals, deposits will begin to accumulate in the radiator, thereby reducing the amount of heat it can extract from the coolant. The same applies to your oil and filter; if it is not changed often enough it becomes laden with contaminates and is unable to properly lubricate the engine. This increases friction and wear.

There are a number of methods for evaluating the condition of your engine. A compression test can reveal the condition of your pistons, piston rings, cylinder bores, head gasket(s), valves and valve seats. An oil pressure test can warn you of possible engine bearing, or oil pump failures. Excessive oil consumption, evidence of oil in the engine air intake area and/or bluish smoke from the tailpipe may indicate worn piston rings, worn valve guides and/or valve seals. As a general rule, an engine that uses no more than one quart of oil every 1000 miles is in good condition. Engines that use one quart of oil or more in less than 1000 miles should first be checked for oil leaks. If any oil leaks are present, have them fixed before determining how much oil is consumed by the engine, especially if blue smoke is not visible at the tailpipe.

Compression Test

A noticeable lack of engine power, excessive oil consumption and/or poor fuel mileage measured over an extended period are all indicators of internal engine wear. Worn piston rings, scored or worn cylinder bores, blown head gaskets, sticking or burnt valves, and worn valve seats are all possible culprits. A check of each cylinder's compression will help locate the problem.

NOTE

A screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate than the type you simply hold against the spark plug hole.Although it takes slightly longer to use, it's worth the effort to obtain a more accurate reading.

1. Make sure that the proper amount and viscosity of engine oil is in the crankcase, then ensure the battery is fully charged.
2. Warm-up the engine to normal operating temperature, then shut the engineOFF .
3. Disable the ignition system.
4. Label and disconnect all of the spark plug wires from the plugs.
5. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head area around the spark plug ports, then remove the spark plugs.
6. Set the throttle plate to the fully open (wide-open throttle) position. You can block the accelerator linkage open for this, or you can have an assistant fully depress the accelerator pedal.

Fig. A screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate and easier to use without an assistant

1. Install a screw-in type compression gauge into the No. 1 spark plug hole until the fitting is snug.

WARNING

Be careful not to crossthread the spark plug hole.

1. According to the tool manufacturer's instructions, connect a remote starting switch to the starting circuit.
2. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, use the remote starting switch to crank the engine through at least five compression strokes (approximately 5 seconds of cranking) and record the highest reading on the gauge.
3. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes and/or time as the first.
4. Compare the highest readings from each cylinder to that of the others. The indicated compression pressures are considered within specifications if the lowest reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the pressure recorded for the highest reading cylinder. For example, if your highest reading cylinder pressure was 150 psi (1034 kPa), then 75 percent of that would be 113 psi (779 kPa). So the lowest reading cylinder should be no less than 113 psi (779 kPa).
5. If a cylinder exhibits an unusually low compression reading, pour a tablespoon of clean engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeat the compression test. If the compression rises after adding oil, it means that the cylinder's piston rings and/or cylinder bore are damaged or worn. If the pressure remains low, the valves may not be seating properly (a valve job is needed), or the head gasket may be blown near that cylinder. If compression in any two adjacent cylinders is low, and if the addition of oil doesn't help raise compression, there is leakage past the head gasket. Oil and coolant in the combustion chamber, combined with blue or constant white smoke from the tailpipe, are symptoms of this problem. However, don't be alarmed by the normal white smoke emitted from the tailpipe during engine warm-up or from cold weather driving. There may be evidence of water droplets on the engine dipstick and/or oil droplets in the cooling system if a head gasket is blown.

Oil Pressure Test

Check for proper oil pressure at the sending unit passage with an externally mounted mechanical oil pressure gauge (as opposed to relying on a factory installed dash-mounted gauge). A tachometer may also be needed, as some specifications may require running the engine at a specific rpm.

1. With the engine cold, locate and remove the oil pressure sending unit.
2. Following the manufacturer's instructions, connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge and, if necessary, a tachometer to the engine.
3. Start the engine and allow it to idle.
4. Check the oil pressure reading when cold and record the number. You may need to run the engine at a specified rpm, so check the specifications.
5. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached (upper radiator hose will feel warm).
6. Check the oil pressure reading again with the engine hot and record the number. Turn the engine OFF .
7. Compare your hot oil pressure reading to that given in the chart. If the reading is low, check the cold pressure reading against the chart. If the cold pressure is well above the specification, and the hot reading was lower than the specification, you may have the wrong viscosity oil in the engine. Change the oil, making sure to use the proper grade and quantity, then repeat the test.

Low oil pressure readings could be attributed to internal component wear, pump related problems, a low oil level, or oil viscosity that is too low. High oil pressure readings could be caused by an overfilled crankcase, too high of an oil viscosity or a faulty pressure relief valve.

Engine Overhaul Tips

Most engine overhaul procedures are fairly standard. In addition to specific parts replacement procedures and specifications for your individual engine, this section is also a guide to acceptable rebuilding procedures. Examples of standard rebuilding practice are given and should be used along with specific details concerning your particular engine.

Competent and accurate machine shop services will ensure maximum performance, reliability and engine life. In most instances it is more profitable for the do-it-yourself mechanic to remove, clean and inspect the component, buy the necessary parts and deliver these to a shop for actual machine work.

Much of the assembly work (crankshaft, bearings, piston rods, and other components) is well within the scope of the do-it-yourself mechanic's tools and abilities. You will have to decide for yourself the depth of involvement you desire in an engine repair or rebuild.

Aluminum has become extremely popular for use in engines, due to its low weight. Observe the following precautions when handling aluminum parts:

Never hot tank aluminum parts (the caustic hot tank solution will eat the aluminum.

Remove all aluminum parts (identification tag, etc.) from engine parts prior to the tanking.

Always coat threads lightly with engine oil or anti-seize compounds before installation, to prevent seizure.

Never overtighten bolts or spark plugs especially in aluminum threads.

When assembling the engine, any parts that will be exposed to frictional contact must be prelubed to provide lubrication at initial start-up. Any product specifically formulated for this purpose can be used, but engine oil is not recommended as a prelube in most cases.

When semi-permanent (locked, but removable) installation of bolts or nuts is desired, threads should be cleaned and coated with Loctite® or another similar, commercial non-hardening sealant.

Repairing Damaged Threads

Fig. Damaged bolt hole threads can be replaced with thread repair inserts

Fig. Standard thread repair insert (left), and spark plug thread insert

Fig. Drill out the damaged threads with the specified size bit. Be sure to drill completely through the hole or to the bottom of a blind hole

Fig. Using the kit, tap the hole in order to receive the thread insert. Keep the tap well oiled and back it out frequently to avoid clogging the threads

Fig. Screw the insert onto the installer tool until the tang engages the slot. Thread the insert into the hole until it is 1/4-1/2 turn below the top surface, then remove the tool and break off the tang using a punch

Several methods of repairing damaged threads are available. Heli-Coil® (shown here), Keenserts® and Microdot® are among the most widely used. All involve basically the same principle-drilling out stripped threads, tapping the hole and installing a prewound insert-making welding, plugging and oversize fasteners unnecessary.

Two types of thread repair inserts are usually supplied: a standard type for most inch coarse, inch fine, metric course and metric fine thread sizes and a spark lug type to fit most spark plug port sizes. Consult the individual tool manufacturer's catalog to determine exact applications. Typical thread repair kits will contain a selection of prewound threaded inserts, a tap (corresponding to the outside diameter threads of the insert) and an installation tool. Spark plug inserts usually differ because they require a tap equipped with pilot threads and a combined reamer/tap section. Most manufacturers also supply blister-packed thread repair inserts separately in addition to a master kit containing a variety of taps and inserts plus installation tools.

Before attempting to repair a threaded hole, remove any snapped, broken or damaged bolts or studs. Penetrating oil can be used to free frozen threads. The offending item can usually be removed with locking pliers or using a screw/stud extractor. After the hole is clear, the thread can be repaired, as shown in the series of accompanying illustrations and in the kit manufacturer's instructions.

Tools

The tools required for an engine overhaul or parts replacement will depend on the depth of your involvement. With a few exceptions, they will be the tools found in a mechanic's tool kit (see Section 1 of this manual). More in-depth work will require some or all of the following:

A dial indicator (reading in thousandths) mounted on a universal base

Micrometers and telescope gauges

Jaw and screw-type pullers

Scraper

Valve spring compressor

Ring groove cleaner

Piston ring expander and compressor

Ridge reamer

Cylinder hone or glaze breaker

Plastigage®

Engine stand

The use of most of these tools is illustrated in this section. Many can be rented for a one-time use from a local parts jobber or tool supply house specializing in automotive work.

Occasionally, the use of special tools is called for.

Engine Preparation

To properly rebuild an engine, you must first remove it from the vehicle, then disassemble and diagnose it. Ideally you should place your engine on an engine stand. This affords you the best access to the engine components. Follow the manufacturer's directions for using the stand with your particular engine. Remove the flywheel or flexplate before installing the engine to the stand.

Now that you have the engine on a stand, and assuming that you have drained the oil and coolant from the engine, it's time to strip it of all but the necessary components. Before you start disassembling the engine, you may want to take a moment to draw some pictures, or fabricate some labels or containers to mark the locations of various components and the bolts and/or studs which fasten them. Modern day engines use a lot of little brackets and clips which hold wiring harnesses and such, and these holders are often mounted on studs and/or bolts that can be easily mixed up. The manufacturer spent a lot of time and money designing your vehicle, and they wouldn't have wasted any of it by haphazardly placing brackets, clips or fasteners on the vehicle. If it's present when you disassemble it, put it back when you assemble, you will regret not remembering that little bracket which holds a wire harness out of the path of a rotating part.

You should begin by unbolting any accessories still attached to the engine, such as the water pump, power steering pump, alternator, etc. Then, unfasten any manifolds (intake or exhaust) which were not removed during the engine removal procedure. Finally, remove any covers remaining on the engine such as the rocker arm, front or timing cover and oil pan. Some front covers may require the vibration damper and/or crank pulley to be removed beforehand. The idea is to reduce the engine to the bare necessities (cylinder head(s), valve train, engine block, crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods), plus any other 'in block' components such as oil pumps, balance shafts and auxiliary shafts.

Finally, remove the cylinder head(s) from the engine block and carefully place on a bench. Disassembly instructions for each component follow later in this section.

Engine Start-Up And Break-In
Breaking It In

Make the first miles on the new engine, easy ones. Vary the speed but do not accelerate hard. Most importantly, do not lug the engine, and avoid sustained high speeds until at least 100 miles. Check the engine oil and coolant levels frequently. Expect the engine to use a little oil until the rings seat. Change the oil and filter at 500 miles, 1500 miles, then every 3000 miles past that.

Starting The Engine

Now that the engine is installed and every wire and hose is properly connected, go back and double check that all coolant and vacuum hoses are connected. Check that your oil drain plug is installed and properly tightened. If not already done, install a new oil filter onto the engine. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of engine oil. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water.

1. Connect the vehicle battery.
2. Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle off.

WARNING

Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the system.

1. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
2. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
3. At this point you can perform any necessary checks or adjustments, such as checking the ignition timing.
4. Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed.

Keeping It Maintained

Now that you have just gone through all of that hard work, keep yourself from doing it all over again by thoroughly maintaining it. Not that you may not have maintained it before, heck you could have had one to two hundred thousand miles on it before doing this. However, you may have bought the vehicle used, and the previous owner did not keep up on maintenance. Which is why you just went through all of that hard work. See-

Fig.

Fig.

Removal & Installation

In the process of removing the engine, you will come across a number of steps which call for the removal of a separate component or system, such as "disconnect the exhaust system" or "remove the radiator." In most instances, a detailed removal procedure can be found elsewhere in this product.

It is virtually impossible to list each individual wire and hose which must be disconnected, simply because so many different model and engine combinations have been manufactured. Careful observation and common sense are the best possible approaches to any repair procedure.

Removal and installation of the engine can be made easier if you follow these basic points:

If you have to drain any of the fluids, use a suitable container.

Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they came from before disconnecting them.

Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label the retainers from components separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee cans. This will prevent confusion during installation.

After unbolting the transmission or transaxle, always make sure it is properly supported.

If it is necessary to disconnect the air conditioning system, have this service performed by a qualified technician using a recovery/recycling station. If the system does not have to be disconnected, unbolt the compressor and set it aside.

When unbolting the engine mounts, always make sure the engine is properly supported. When removing the engine, make sure that any lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. It is recommended that if your engine is supplied with lifting hooks, your lifting apparatus be attached to them.

Lift the engine from its compartment slowly, checking that no hoses, wires or other components are still connected.

After the engine is clear of the compartment, place it on an engine stand or workbench.

After the engine has been removed, you can perform a partial or full teardown of the engine using the procedures outlined herein.

E30 Models
M20 Engines

1. Allow the engine coolant temperature to cool below 100°F (38°C).
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the transmission as outlined in Section 7.
4. Remove the power steering belt, then without disconnecting the fluid hoses, loosen and remove the power steering pump mounting bolts. Remove the pump with the hoses attached and support the pump out of the way.
5. Remove the radiator drain plug and drain the engine coolant into a sealable container.
6. Remove the radiator cooling fan from the engine and make sure to store it in an upright position.
7. If equipped, remove the air conditioner compressor drive belts and mounting bolts, then without disconnecting the high pressure hoses move the compressor out of the way and support.
8. Remove the hood strut support through-bolts and fully open the hood. Make sure to support the hood securely.

CAUTION

Use care to support the hood in a safe manner. Failure to do so could result in serious injury and/or mechanical damage.

1. Disconnect the accelerator cable and if equipped, disconnect the cruise control cable. On vehicles with an automatic transmission, disconnect the throttle cable leading to the transmission.
2. Carefully remove the large, multi-prong electrical connector off the airflow sensor (an integral part of the air cleaner). Loosen the air intake hose clamp and disconnect the hose at the airflow sensor. Remove the mounting nuts and remove the air filter housing along with the airflow sensor unit.
3. Disconnect the radiator expansion tank hose, then disconnect the large, multi-prong electrical connector near the air intake hose.
4. Locate the large, screw-on diagnostic electrical connector located near the thermostat, then unscrew and disconnect the connector.
5. Disconnect the large coolant hoses at the thermostat.
6. Place a suitable container under the engine, then disconnect the fuel line at the connection near the thermostat housing by unscrewing it and unfasten the fuel line clip about a foot away from the connection.
7. Detach the electrical connectors near the diagnostic connector.
8. Disconnect the bracket for the dipstick guide tube.
9. Remove the bolts that attach the coolant pipe mounting brackets to the engine.
10. Disconnect the heater hoses at the heater core fittings (near the firewall), then remove the coolant hose at the top of the block.
11. Place a suitable container under the engine and disconnect the fuel hose for the engine injectors, then detach the injector's electrical connectors.
12. Remove the bolt from the mounting bracket connected to the cylinder head.
13. Label and disconnect the electrical leads from the starter. Unbolt the starter and lift it out from above.
14. Place a suitable container under the engine to collect fuel; then, disconnect the fuel pipe near the starter.
15. Label the electrical connectors on the alternator. Then, pull off the rubber caps for the connectors and remove the nuts and washers. Disconnect the plug-in electrical connector.
16. Label and disconnect the electrical leads for the coil. Loosen the clips attaching the leads under the distributor and pull the harness away to the left, then disconnect the oil pressure sending unit wire.
17. Place a suitable drain pan underneath the engine and disconnect the oil cooler pipe flare nut fittings at the crankcase.
18. Remove the cover from the under hood relay box and lift off the relays along with their mounting sockets. Carefully place the relays and associated wiring on top of the engine.
19. Loosen the carbon canister mounting clamp and remove it.
20. Locate the mounting plate near the dipstick guide tube where several electrical leads are connected. Remove its mounting screws and move the plate aside so it will clear the dipstick guide tube when the engine is removed.
21. Remove the 2 bolts that fasten the wiring harness to the firewall, then, disconnect the engine ground strap.
22. Remove both engine mount through-bolts. Carefully lift out the engine with a suitable hoist, using the hooks provided at the front and rear.

To install:

1. Installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following.
2. Once installed the engine must be positioned such that the guide pin must fit in the bore of the axle carrier.
3. Torque the mounting bolts on the front axle carrier as follows:
   
   
   Small bolt: 18-20 ft. lbs. (25-27 Nm)

   Large bolt: 31-35. (40-47 Nm)

   Mount-to-bracket bolts: 31-35 ft. lbs. (40-47 Nm)

   Engine-to-bracket mount small bolts: 16-17 ft. lbs. (22-23 Nm)

   Engine-to-bracket mount large bolts: 31-35 ft. lbs. (40-47 Nm)
   
   
4. Connect the fuel lines using new hose clamps to the fuel filter.
5. Connect all of the multi-plugs electrical connectors and vacuum hoses.
6. Connect the accelerator cable and if equipped, the cruise control cable to the throttle body.
7. Install the coolant recovery tank using a new hose clamp.
8. Install the air filter housing and reconnect all the electrical plugs. Connect and install the relays in the relay box.
9. Reconnect the wiring to the main control unit and install the idle control unit.
10. Install the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump, properly route the accessory drive belt. Adjust the belt tension.
11. Install the radiator and connect the hoses.
12. Install the transmission.
13. Install the hood support.
14. Check and make sure all fluid levels are topped off as necessary before starting the engine.
15. Bleed any trapped air from the cooling system.

M42 Engine

1. Allow the engine coolant temperature to cool below 100°F (38°C).
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the transmission as outlined in Section 7.
4. Remove the engine splash guard. Disconnect the gas spring and prop rod and support hood safely in the fully open position.

CAUTION

Use care to support the hood in a safe manner. Failure to do so could result in serious injury and/or mechanical damage.

1. Remove the fan cowl by turning the expansion rivets on the left and right sides. Lift the cowl up and out of the engine compartment.
2. Hold the fan pulley while unscrewing the fan nut clockwise from the shaft.

NOTE

The shaft has left hand threads thus the nut is turned clockwise to unscrew.

1. Drain the coolant from the radiator and engine block into a suitable container. Disconnect the bottom hose from the radiator expansion tank, the engine coolant hoses and the heater hoses from the splash wall. Drain all coolant into a suitable container.
2. Disconnect the air flow meter electrical connector and loosen the hose clamp and mounting screws. Lift the air sensor with the air cleaner housing up and out of the engine compartment.
3. Unclip the throttle cable and pull the cable out with the rubber holder.
4. Label and disconnect the fuel lines and remove the vent hose to the filter for tank venting.
5. Disconnect the vacuum fitting at the brake booster.
6. Remove the ignition leads from the coil. Unscrew the connections at the alternator and starter. Disconnect the 2 plugs from the electrical duct.
7. Remove the plug from the throttle valve potentiometer located at the throttle neck.
8. Pull off the tank venting valve plug located next to the air cleaner. Disconnect the fuel injector plug located at the end of the electrical duct near to the fuel pipes.
9. Pull off the idle speed control connector at the rear of the intake manifold.
10. Detach the oil pressure switch electrical connection.
11. Unscrew the front and rear intake manifold supports.
12. Remove the electrical duct from the engine. Disconnect the coolant temperature senders for the gauge and the DME engine control module.
13. Disconnect the electrical duct and wiring harness on the engine and lay it off to the side of the engine.
14. Use a suitable lifting yoke to attach to the engine lifting eyes. Unscrew the engine mounts and the engine ground strap. Lift out the engine.

To install:

1. Lower engine into engine compartment. Fasten the motor mounts and the ground strap.
2. Attach the engine wiring harness and electrical duct. Make sure that the rubber grommets on the duct are clipped in correctly. Connect the leads to the two coolant sensors and the oil pressure switch.
3. Fasten the front and rear intake manifold supports.
4. Connect the idle speed control plug, the fuel injector plug, the tank venting valve plug, the throttle valve potentiometer plug and the electrical lead duct plugs.
5. Reconnect the starter and the alternator. Attach the ignition leads to the coil in the proper order.
6. Refit the vacuum connection to the brake booster. Reconnect the tank vent hose and the fuel hoses. The upper fuel hose is the return line and the bottom is the feed line.
7. Attach the throttle cable and its holder. Replace the air cleaner and air flow meter assembly. Attach the electrical connector to the air flow meter.
8. Connect the heater hoses, engine coolant hoses and the radiator expansion tank hose.
9. Install the fan turning the nut counterclockwise using Tool No. 11 5 040 or equivalent. Torque the nut to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). If using the tool set the torque wrench to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm); the additional length of the tool multiplies the torque to achieve 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) at the nut.
10. Replace the fan cowl taking care to engage the tabs at the right and left.
11. Install the transmission as outlined in Section 7.
12. Replace the engine splash guard, then reconnect the hood prop rod and gas spring.
13. Check and top off all fluid levels as necessary, then bleed the cooling system.
14. Connect the battery leads and recheck all fluid levels before starting the engine.

S14 Engine

1. Allow the engine coolant temperature to cool below 100°F (38°C).
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the transmission as outlined in Section 7.
4. Remove the splash guard from underneath the engine. Drain coolant from both the radiator and block into a suitable container.
5. Loosen the hose clamps at both ends of the air intake hose leading to the air intake sensor. Carefully pull off the hose. Then, detach both electrical connectors from the air cleaner/airflow sensor unit. Remove the mounting nuts and remove the unit.
6. Disconnect the accelerator and if equipped, the cruise control cable. Remove the cable housing mounting bracket nuts and set the housing and bracket aside.
7. Loosen the brake booster vacuum hose clamp at the booster and disconnect the hose.
8. Loosen and disconnect the clamp of the booster vacuum hose at the manifold, then remove the nut from the intake manifold brace.
9. Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the air intake hose at the manifold. Then, remove all the nuts attaching the manifold assembly to the outer ends of the intake throttle necks and remove the assembly.
10. Loosen the hose clamps and disconnect the coolant expansion tank hoses and drain into a suitable drain pan, then disconnect the engine ground strap.
11. Disconnect the ignition coil high tension lead. Then, label and disconnect the connectors on the front of the block. Remove the nut fastening another lead farther forward of the connectors and move the lead aside so it will not interfere with engine removal.
12. Label and detach the connectors from the rear of the alternator. Label the additional connectors and then remove the nuts and unplug the remaining connectors. Reinstall the nuts once the leads are removed to keep them from being lost.
13. Remove the cover for the electrical connectors from the starter. Label the leads and then remove the attaching nuts and disconnect them. Reinstall the nuts.
14. There is a wire running to a connector on the oil pan to warn of low oil level. Pull off the connector, unscrew the carrier for the lead, and then pull the lead out from above. Pull off the connectors near where the lead for the low oil warning system ran and unclip the wires from the carrier.
15. Locate the vacuum hose leading to the fuel pressure regulator and carefully remove it. Label and then disconnect the plugs. Unscrew the mounting screw for the electrical lead connecting with the top of the block and remove the lead and its carrier.
16. Locate the vacuum hose connected to the throttle necks. Disconnect it and pull it away from the intake manifold bracket. Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the rubber retainer, and then pull the idle speed control out and place it aside. Locate the engine wiring harness and remove it from its carriers.
17. All the fuel injectors are plugged into a common plate. Carefully and evenly pull the plate off the injectors, pull it out past the pressure regulator, and lay it aside.
18. Loosen the clamp and then disconnect the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose. Label and then disconnect the fuel lines connecting the injector circuit. Disconnect the heater hose from the cylinder head and drain the coolant into a suitable container.
19. Loosen the clamp near the throttle necks and then pull the engine wiring harness out and put it aside. Disconnect the heater hose that connects to the block and drain the coolant into a suitable container.
20. Loosen the mounting clamp for the carbon canister, slide it out of the clamp, and place it aside with the hoses connected.
21. Note the routing of the oil cooler lines where they connect to the base of the oil filter. Label them as necessary. Unscrew the flared connectors for the lines and drain the oil into a suitable container.
22. Unbolt and remove the engine cooling fan. Store it in an upright position. Remove the radiator.
23. Remove the power steering belt, then remove the adjusting bolt and the nuts and bolts on which the unit hinges Pull the pump aside and support the power steering pump so there will not be strain on the hoses.
24. If equipped, disconnect and remove the air conditioning belt Remove the adjusting bolt and the nut at one end of the hinge bolt and pull the bolt out for the air conditioning compressor. Then, remove, and support the compressor with the high pressure hoses attached.

Fig. Air conditioner compressor mounting bolts on the S14 engine

1. Remove the hood strut support through-bolts and fully open the hood. Make sure to support the hood securely.

CAUTION

Use care to support the hood in a safe manner. Failure to do so could result in serious injury and/or mechanical damage.

1. Suspend the engine with a suitable lifting device. Then, remove the nuts for the engine mounting bolts. The mounts are on the axle carrier and the nut is at the top on the left and on the bottom on the right. Then, carefully lift the engine out of the compartment, avoiding contact with the components remaining in the vehicle.

To install:

1. Installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following.
2. Torque the engine mounting bolts to 32.5 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
3. Adjust the belt tension for the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump drive belts to give ¹ / ₂ - ³ / ₄ inch (12-19mm) deflection.
4. Torque the oil cooler line flare nuts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)
5. When reconnecting the intake manifold to the throttle necks, inspect and, if necessary, replace the O-rings. Torque the mounting nuts to 78 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
6. When lowering the engine into the engine compartment, the engine is positioned such that the guide pin must fit in the bore of the axle carrier.
7. Torque the mounting bolts on the front axle carrier as follows:
   
   
   Small bolt: 18-20 ft. lbs. (25-27 Nm)

   Large bolt: 31-35. (40-47 Nm)

   Mount-to-bracket bolts: 31-35 ft. lbs. (40-47 Nm)

   Engine-to-bracket mount large bolts: 31-35 ft. lbs. (40-47 Nm)
   
   
8. Install the intake manifold assembly and connect the fuel lines, use new hose clamps to connect the fuel lines to the fuel filter. Connect all of the multi-prong plugs and all vacuum hoses.
9. Connect the accelerator cable and cruise control cable to the throttle body and adjust the accelerator cable and cruise control cable.
10. Install the coolant recovery tank using a new hose clamp.
11. Install the air cleaner and reconnect all electrical plugs. Connect and install the relays in the relay box.
12. Reconnect the wiring to the main control unit and install the idle control unit.
13. If equipped, install the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump, properly route the accessory drive belt. Adjust the belt tension.
14. Install the radiator and connect the hoses.
15. Install the transmission as outlined in Section 7.
16. Install the hood support and lower the hood.
17. Check and top off all fluid levels as necessary before starting the engine. Bleed the air from the cooling system as needed.